Comments for Wire Bunker http://www.wirebunker.com All of Your Electrical Needs Sun, 29 Aug 2010 05:39:59 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by realamerican http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-146 realamerican Sun, 29 Aug 2010 05:39:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-146 you should stick with marine grade wire for a couple of reasons. 1. the salt water eats anything that is not designed for marine use. 2. use the chart caveman suggested. remember that DC has trouble going long distances so you have to get the right gauge wire or there will be a loss of voltage. most electronics are very touchy about how much voltage they get, and they can be damaged if the differences is great enough-any boater knows they ain't cheap. Buy the wire from west marine or boat u.s. they usually have a good selection. Marine wire is going to cost more than normal wire but hey, on a boat, what doesnt, right? in conclusion- use the chart to select a heavy enough gauge. Pay the extra buck to get Marine wires. No telling how long the household stuff will last...<br><b>References : </b><br>fellow boater and DIYer you should stick with marine grade wire for a couple of reasons. 1. the salt water eats anything that is not designed for marine use. 2. use the chart caveman suggested. remember that DC has trouble going long distances so you have to get the right gauge wire or there will be a loss of voltage. most electronics are very touchy about how much voltage they get, and they can be damaged if the differences is great enough-any boater knows they ain’t cheap.

Buy the wire from west marine or boat u.s. they usually have a good selection. Marine wire is going to cost more than normal wire but hey, on a boat, what doesnt, right?

in conclusion- use the chart to select a heavy enough gauge. Pay the extra buck to get Marine wires. No telling how long the household stuff will last…
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fellow boater and DIYer

]]> Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by justanotherengine http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-145 justanotherengine Sun, 29 Aug 2010 04:57:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-145 The wire must be oil, fuel, and U.V resistant, I would use 14 wire, do as "caveman" says, solder, heat shrink, and apply "Liquid electric tape" to the marine connection after solder, and heat shrink tubing, this is the correct marine rated electrical connection, You may hook up directly to the battery using terminal clips soldered on to 14 wire, put in-line fuses in for circuit protection (fire at sea is bad). Boat wires are expensive, I saw the above mentioned wire for a good price at www.harborfreigth.com, you can actually use "Romex" for the main terminal to the fuse box from the battery, it holds up well. solder, do not crimp any connections, solder may corrode on the outside but, inside the electrical connection is still good. I keep one of those "CRACK" lighters on board in case I have to do any emergency solder repairs, along w/spare wire, fuses, connectors, tools and a little bit of solder wire.<br><b>References : </b><br> The wire must be oil, fuel, and U.V resistant, I would use 14 wire, do as "caveman" says, solder, heat shrink, and apply "Liquid electric tape" to the marine connection after solder, and heat shrink tubing, this is the correct marine rated electrical connection, You may hook up directly to the battery using terminal clips soldered on to 14 wire, put in-line fuses in for circuit protection (fire at sea is bad). Boat wires are expensive, I saw the above mentioned wire for a good price at http://www.harborfreigth.com, you can actually use "Romex" for the main terminal to the fuse box from the battery, it holds up well. solder, do not crimp any connections, solder may corrode on the outside but, inside the electrical connection is still good. I keep one of those "CRACK" lighters on board in case I have to do any emergency solder repairs, along w/spare wire, fuses, connectors, tools and a little bit of solder wire.
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]]> Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by Caveman http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-144 Caveman Sun, 29 Aug 2010 04:26:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-144 Your wire gauge will depend mainly on amp draw for current and future loads. You can find a chart outlining wire gauge/amp load /circuit length/ allowed voltage drop guidelines here. http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/MarineWire.pdf Keep in mind AWG sizes are different than SAE sizes. That should get you started. Always use tinned wire for corrosion resistance. When splicing wires, use adhesive lined heat shrink. Solder all permanent connections (wire to terminal and splices) Apply dielectric grease to all non-permanant connections.(terminal to switch lugs) Draw a schematic of your changes/additions to aid in diagnosis of problems. Keep it on board and dry. Use marine grade components throughout your project.<br><b>References : </b><br> Your wire gauge will depend mainly on amp draw for current and future loads.
You can find a chart outlining wire gauge/amp load /circuit length/ allowed voltage drop guidelines here.
http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/MarineWire.pdf
Keep in mind AWG sizes are different than SAE sizes.
That should get you started.
Always use tinned wire for corrosion resistance.
When splicing wires, use adhesive lined heat shrink.
Solder all permanent connections (wire to terminal and splices)
Apply dielectric grease to all non-permanant connections.(terminal to switch lugs)
Draw a schematic of your changes/additions to aid in diagnosis of problems. Keep it on board and dry.
Use marine grade components throughout your project.
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]]> Comment on What type of electrical wire would I need to run a few appliances on that is 500ft away? by tlbs101 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away/comment-page-1#comment-133 tlbs101 Sun, 29 Aug 2010 04:24:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away#comment-133 A radio, window fan, and 2 lights (i.e. compact fluorescant, "CFL" types) is not a big 'load'. The fan and incandescant lamps (normal light bulbs) can handle voltages much lower than 120 Volts. The radio may, or may not be able to handle a lower line voltage -- read the label or owner's manual to be sure. If you use CFL bulbs, make sure you buy ones that are rated for lower line voltage, too. Given a small load, and the probability that most of these 4 items can probably stand a lower line voltage, you can use five 100' extension cords, each one at 12 gauge. Or, buy 500' of 12-3 "Romex" type house wiring (might be cheaper than 5 extension cords). 12 gauge wire is 1.6 Ohms per 1000' (which you have -- exactly 1000 feet). A radio, fan, and 2 CFL light bulbs can be anywhere between 150 and 250 Watts (powerful fan). At 240 Watts that is 2 Amps. 2 Amps multiplied by 1.6 Ohms is a voltage drop of only 3.2 volts. This is certainly acceptable at the far end of the span. With 12 gauge wire, you can probably run 500 Watts of stuff, but I wouldn't go much higher. With 10 gauge wire, you can run upwards of 1000 Watts of stuff. As for safety and whether it is legal for a long-term installation -- consult your local building ordinances. .<br><b>References : </b><br> A radio, window fan, and 2 lights (i.e. compact fluorescant, "CFL" types) is not a big ‘load’.
The fan and incandescant lamps (normal light bulbs) can handle voltages much lower than 120 Volts. The radio may, or may not be able to handle a lower line voltage — read the label or owner’s manual to be sure. If you use CFL bulbs, make sure you buy ones that are rated for lower line voltage, too.

Given a small load, and the probability that most of these 4 items can probably stand a lower line voltage, you can use five 100′ extension cords, each one at 12 gauge. Or, buy 500′ of 12-3 "Romex" type house wiring (might be cheaper than 5 extension cords).

12 gauge wire is 1.6 Ohms per 1000′ (which you have — exactly 1000 feet). A radio, fan, and 2 CFL light bulbs can be anywhere between 150 and 250 Watts (powerful fan). At 240 Watts that is 2 Amps. 2 Amps multiplied by 1.6 Ohms is a voltage drop of only 3.2 volts. This is certainly acceptable at the far end of the span.

With 12 gauge wire, you can probably run 500 Watts of stuff, but I wouldn’t go much higher.
With 10 gauge wire, you can run upwards of 1000 Watts of stuff.

As for safety and whether it is legal for a long-term installation — consult your local building ordinances.

.
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]]> Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by mark t http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-143 mark t Sun, 29 Aug 2010 04:05:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-143 14 gauge is the norm with 12 used for heavier circuits. You would be better off using 14/2 tinned marine wire on the boat. Less chance of corrosion and sheathed in heavy plastic. Do not twist the + and - wires, there will be no electrolysis in the wiring and this will make it harder to work on. You should use only marine grade switches and fuses,etc for this type of application, don't want any explosions onboard!<br><b>References : </b><br>former marine mech, ex coastie, boater 14 gauge is the norm with 12 used for heavier circuits. You would be better off using 14/2 tinned marine wire on the boat. Less chance of corrosion and sheathed in heavy plastic. Do not twist the + and – wires, there will be no electrolysis in the wiring and this will make it harder to work on. You should use only marine grade switches and fuses,etc for this type of application, don’t want any explosions onboard!
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former marine mech, ex coastie, boater

]]> Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by THX1138 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-142 THX1138 Sun, 29 Aug 2010 03:45:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-142 It would be beneficial to know the current of a circuit before determining the wire size. Too big and you're wasting your $ and too small and it may catch fire. There are several web sites that list the current rating per wire gage.<br><b>References : </b><br> It would be beneficial to know the current of a circuit before determining the wire size. Too big and you’re wasting your $ and too small and it may catch fire. There are several web sites that list the current rating per wire gage.
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]]> Comment on What type of electrical wire would I need to run a few appliances on that is 500ft away? by vverhoff http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away/comment-page-1#comment-132 vverhoff Sun, 29 Aug 2010 03:39:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away#comment-132 Depending on the temperature, it sounds like you will need between a 8ga or 10ga multistrand copper although if this is permanent I would calculated per NEC requirements.<br><b>References : </b><br> Depending on the temperature, it sounds like you will need between a 8ga or 10ga multistrand copper although if this is permanent I would calculated per NEC requirements.
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]]> Comment on Redoing boat electrical wires? by Fred S http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires/comment-page-1#comment-141 Fred S Sun, 29 Aug 2010 03:26:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire-store/redoing-boat-electrical-wires#comment-141 yes make sure you twist the positive and the negative wires the whole length of the run that helps eliminate some of the electrolysis that takes place<br><b>References : </b><br> yes make sure you twist the positive and the negative wires the whole length of the run that helps eliminate some of the electrolysis that takes place
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]]> Comment on An Electrical Theory Question I would like to ask someone with this type of knowledge? by Bob http://www.wirebunker.com/home-electrical-wiring-supplies/an-electrical-theory-question-i-would-like-to-ask-someone-with-this-type-of-knowledge/comment-page-1#comment-134 Bob Sun, 29 Aug 2010 03:07:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/home-electrical-wiring-supplies/an-electrical-theory-question-i-would-like-to-ask-someone-with-this-type-of-knowledge#comment-134 It is unlikely that an electrical fault on your wiring will have any effect on others unless it is so severe and the park wiring so poor that the main service fuses to the park blow. Your landlord wants you out, that's the bottom line, all of this cr*p about your poor wiring is rubbish, you should look for somewhere else.<br><b>References : </b><br>HND Electronics UK, UK approved electrician, UK Elecrical lecturer in Further Education It is unlikely that an electrical fault on your wiring will have any effect on others unless it is so severe and the park wiring so poor that the main service fuses to the park blow.
Your landlord wants you out, that’s the bottom line, all of this cr*p about your poor wiring is rubbish, you should look for somewhere else.
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HND Electronics UK, UK approved electrician, UK Elecrical lecturer in Further Education

]]> Comment on What type of electrical wire would I need to run a few appliances on that is 500ft away? by Tj http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away/comment-page-1#comment-131 Tj Sun, 29 Aug 2010 03:02:59 +0000 http://www.wirebunker.com/electrical-wire/what-type-of-electrical-wire-would-i-need-to-run-a-few-appliances-on-that-is-500ft-away#comment-131 Probably wire that is at least 500 feet long.<br><b>References : </b><br> Probably wire that is at least 500 feet long.
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