Redoing boat electrical wires?
I’m rewiring my boat and would like to know if I could use a 16 gage wire from electronic store. I’ll be rewiring the volt gauges, switch boards and lights. I just want to make sure I get wire that is big enough. Thanks!
Even if it is possible to use a thinner wire you need to keep in mind if it breaks down while in use you can’t just pull it over to the side of the road and walk home.

8 Comments
Aug 28, 2010 9:37 pm |
Even if it is possible to use a thinner wire you need to keep in mind if it breaks down while in use you can’t just pull it over to the side of the road and walk home.
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Aug 28, 2010 9:52 pm |
16 gauge is a bit on the skimpy side. I would use 14 gauge at least on the lights
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Aug 28, 2010 10:26 pm |
yes make sure you twist the positive and the negative wires the whole length of the run that helps eliminate some of the electrolysis that takes place
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Aug 28, 2010 10:45 pm |
It would be beneficial to know the current of a circuit before determining the wire size. Too big and you’re wasting your $ and too small and it may catch fire. There are several web sites that list the current rating per wire gage.
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Aug 28, 2010 11:05 pm |
14 gauge is the norm with 12 used for heavier circuits. You would be better off using 14/2 tinned marine wire on the boat. Less chance of corrosion and sheathed in heavy plastic. Do not twist the + and – wires, there will be no electrolysis in the wiring and this will make it harder to work on. You should use only marine grade switches and fuses,etc for this type of application, don’t want any explosions onboard!
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former marine mech, ex coastie, boater
Aug 28, 2010 11:26 pm |
Your wire gauge will depend mainly on amp draw for current and future loads.
You can find a chart outlining wire gauge/amp load /circuit length/ allowed voltage drop guidelines here.
http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/MarineWire.pdf
Keep in mind AWG sizes are different than SAE sizes.
That should get you started.
Always use tinned wire for corrosion resistance.
When splicing wires, use adhesive lined heat shrink.
Solder all permanent connections (wire to terminal and splices)
Apply dielectric grease to all non-permanant connections.(terminal to switch lugs)
Draw a schematic of your changes/additions to aid in diagnosis of problems. Keep it on board and dry.
Use marine grade components throughout your project.
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Aug 28, 2010 11:57 pm |
The wire must be oil, fuel, and U.V resistant, I would use 14 wire, do as "caveman" says, solder, heat shrink, and apply "Liquid electric tape" to the marine connection after solder, and heat shrink tubing, this is the correct marine rated electrical connection, You may hook up directly to the battery using terminal clips soldered on to 14 wire, put in-line fuses in for circuit protection (fire at sea is bad). Boat wires are expensive, I saw the above mentioned wire for a good price at http://www.harborfreigth.com, you can actually use "Romex" for the main terminal to the fuse box from the battery, it holds up well. solder, do not crimp any connections, solder may corrode on the outside but, inside the electrical connection is still good. I keep one of those "CRACK" lighters on board in case I have to do any emergency solder repairs, along w/spare wire, fuses, connectors, tools and a little bit of solder wire.
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Aug 29, 2010 12:39 am |
you should stick with marine grade wire for a couple of reasons. 1. the salt water eats anything that is not designed for marine use. 2. use the chart caveman suggested. remember that DC has trouble going long distances so you have to get the right gauge wire or there will be a loss of voltage. most electronics are very touchy about how much voltage they get, and they can be damaged if the differences is great enough-any boater knows they ain’t cheap.
Buy the wire from west marine or boat u.s. they usually have a good selection. Marine wire is going to cost more than normal wire but hey, on a boat, what doesnt, right?
in conclusion- use the chart to select a heavy enough gauge. Pay the extra buck to get Marine wires. No telling how long the household stuff will last…
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fellow boater and DIYer
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